Rafting Gear
In this section, we look at packraft equipment. Packrafting in the wilderness is dangerous. If you're going to packraft in remote lakes, consider how you will mitigate for potential drowning or hypothermia. If you're going to float white water, familiarize yourself with dangers of rapids, hydraulic holes, eddy lines, and sweepers. If you're going to float in the kiddie pool, you better have a cool hat and those water-wings with sparkles on'em.
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A NOTE ON PFDs (A.K.A. Lifejackets/Personal Flotation Devices).
We often use inflatable mattresses as our flotation devices, as profiled in the Accessories section. We are not suggesting that you should do the same. We do this out of our own comfort with certain situations, and/or out of necessity. We always use a more reliable PFD when it is available. The extra weight and bulk may save your life!!!
The Alpacka Raft
Left: The Alpacka raft, at rest.
Right: The Alpacka raft, not at rest.
The Alpacka raft and its siblings are manufactured by the Alpackaraft, up in Alaska. We LOVE these things. They're lightweight (about 4 pounds), very durable, repairable in the field, and suitable for running whitewater. In certain terrains (such as Alaska and the Olympic Mountains), packrafts tremendously expand your exploration options. The unique virtue of the packraft is its portability.
Alpacka rafts are expensive, and will run into the $600+ range. They are also State-of-the-Art. See them at www.alpackaraft.com/site/.
We find Alpacka's useful for several key applications:
- River Crossings. A packraft is the best way to get across deep, swift rivers, especially if you're laden with gear.
- Downriver Transport. You can float long distances with your gear in a packraft, even with skis, bicycles, and other bulky items.
- Maritime Trips. Many small islands are only accessable by boat, and many fjords or headlands are impassable wihtout them. The packraft is a portable means of negotiating marine obstacles and reaching seldom-visited areas.
- Fishing. You can fish remote lakes from a packraft.
- River Running. Punching rapids is fun in a single-person raft.
- Scenic Drifting. Especially at dawn or dusk when the animals are moving, a packraft is a great way to observe the landscape and wildlife. It moves you with almost complete silence and in the flow the landscape.
SPECIAL NOTES ON THE ALPACKA:
- Running Rivers is Dangerous. The Alpacka raft is durable enough to let a single person, even heavily laden with gear, get into some rough situations. For that reason, knowing when to quit is a vital Alpacka rafting skill.
- Consider a Dorry Stone. Throwing a heavy rock into the bow of the raft can improve it's handling considerably in some situations. We usually use a well-rounded 10-15 lb. river cobble.
- The Alpacka is Worn as Much as Piloted. Body motion has a considerable effect on raft motion.
- Secure Your Paddle to the raft via a length of cordage. Otherwise, you may be VERY sad.
- Practice Bailing In and Out. Practice bailing out over the side of your raft, then climbing back in without touching the bottom. This is not difficult, but you want to know how to do it without thinking if you spill in a rapid.
- Inflation. The Alpacka inflates via an "inflation bag" that comes with the raft. It is a simple pump, consisting of a nozzle arrangement on a sil-nylon bag with a semi-rigid ring to give it structure. To inflate, you fill the "bag" with air, close it off, and squeeze air into the boat. This system is very simple and lightweight. As such, it is benefits from a little finesse. Notes on this process:
- Stow the Bag Carefully. When its structure-giving ring is bent too much out of shape, you lose a lot of air volume in the bag.
- Inflate the Seat First.
- Point the Bag Mouth Upwind when inflating your boat.
- Don't Twist the Bag. Twists focus at the nozzle-neck, where they shut off air flow.
- Remove the Nozzle from the Boat by Grasping the Nozzle, not the bag, or you can rip the bag off the nozzle.
- Top Off by Mouth. At a certain point, you lose as much air with the pump as you put in. That's the time to switch over to the mouth-inflation valve and top it off.
- Temper Your Inflated Raft. After the raft is inflated, roll it in the water you'll be rafting in, and letting it sit for a few minutes while you suit up. The cool water will likely decrease the air volume in the raft, and you can top it off again by mouth before setting sail.
- Flooding is a special concern. When totally swamped, an Alpacka raft can hold a large amount of water, increasing its weight from 4 pounds to well over a hundred pounds. A river or surf can continue to move it around, sending it into personnel. In surf, we try to fall onto the raft when this happens. Bracing against the impact may be inadvisable: if you brace a leg and the raft is driven into you, it could blow out your knee easily. Overturning and emptying the raft, even once it’s on secure ground, takes considerable strength.
ALTERNATIVE RAFT USES
It’s hard to take Alpacka Rafts beyond their design spec, but we’re trying. Our primary exploration has been in exceeding Alpacka’s design spec laterally – that is, instead of overusing the rafts in their intended roles, we take them into other roles:
Groundsheet. Like any other impermeable barrier, a deflated Alpacka raft is a serviceable, if not exactly smooth, groundsheet, providing a little insulation and a lot of protection from moisture and grit. Stones, sticks, etc. should not puncture the raft, but cactus spines and broken glass might.
Shelter. We're still working on Alpacka raft shelter techniques, and we'd love to hear ideas on this one. An alpacka or three and a creatively tailored tarp have endless possibilities. Bretwood Higman and Erin McKittrick, Beyond Spec's Staff Marriage Counselors, use two techniques to shelter in Alpacka rafts. In first, simple version, they take two rafts, partially inflate them both, and place them upside down, one on top of the other. Then they strap the top one to the bottom one so it won't slide off or blow away. That done, they crawl between them, making a Hig-Erin-Alpack sandwich. The floor of the upside down bottom raft holds them off the cold ground, and the void under the top raft's floor provides a space for two not-too-large people to snuggle up together. It's not very comfortable, but it works.
Sled. Inflated Alpacka rafts also make acceptable sleds, with the seat providing cushioning and the sides protecting the rider, although kayak paddles are dubious steering mechanisms. In the 2004 Alaskan Wilderness Classic, many intrepid racers used their Alpackas as sleds to descend from a snow-bound pass. Aspiring sledders may wish to note:
- The Alpacka has no keel. As a result, much like a disc sled or inner tube, it lacks rotatational stability. The rider must provide this, using - for instance - a held stick, ice axe, or antler as a trailing rudder.
- The Alpacka has no brakes.
- Unlike us, the Alpacka is fearless and brave. It may decide to seek glory. If it does so, there is no shame in bailing out in a cowardly fashion.
Quicksand Escape Pod. Bretwood Higman & Erin McKittrick have found utility in carrying the Alpacka, or any other raft, inflated on their back while crossing potential quicksand flats in Alaska. If the ground begins to liquify, one can simply fall back, and lie on the raft. This prevents further sinking, and gives you a large, buoyant platform from which to manage the extraction of any sunken feet.
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The Sevylor Raft
Left: Negotiating a hole on the Queets River, WA, in a sevylor.
Right: The sevylor in calm water. Note the small plastic paddle.
Sevylor packrafts run about $60, including a miniature collapsing kayak paddle, and are sufficient to float a single person with equipment. Sevylor rafts are also very easily punctured and swamped. The paddles tend to break at embarassing moments, and the blades bend when you stroke hard. We only recommend using Sevylor rafts in flat, calm water with no sharp objects present. You can run minor whitewater (Class 2 & 3) in a Sevylor, but it is a BAD idea. If you insist on using the Sevylor outside ponds and swimming pools, we suggest:
- Do NOT run water with any breaking waves.
- Do NOT use the D-rings (a.k.a. Emergency Deflation Rings).
- Carry plentiful patch gear and warm clothing.
If you actually intend to take the raft on whitewater, we STRONGLY advise:
- BE a proficient whitewater paddler.
- AQUIRE a stronger, non-Sevylor paddle.
- BE a strong swimmer, familiar with river hazards like hyrdaulic holes and foot entrapment.
- Have a HIGH COLD TOLERANCE.
- NEVER RUN WATER YOU CAN'T SWIM OUT!
The Sevlor's inflatable bottom makes it a substitute air mattress, but this is counterbalanced by the fact that a single rocky stretch of river is likely to puncture the bottom. Otherwise, you can used it as a small tarp to sleep on.
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Collapsable Kayak Paddles.
Company called Aquabound makes collapsable kayak paddles recommended for use with the Alpacka raft. We haven’t torture-tested these paddles too much, since, frankly, they’re expensive: () for fiberglass, () for carbon fiber. Aquabound allows you to order paddles cut to your desired length. Bear in mind the trade-offs: greater length = greater leverage = better power and control, but shorter paddles are “handier” and easier to pack, especially if you plan on doing a lot of bushwacking with the paddle lengths in your gear. Most of us, on purchasing our paddles, found that the middle sections were cut to different lengths, making packing a little more awkward. You may want to specialy request that Aquabound cut the two midsections to equal lengths, if you plan on doing a lot of packrafting.
We don't know if anyone else makes similar paddles, but you can visit Aquabound at ().
ALTERNATIVE PADDLE USES:
- Packframe Reinforcement. Collapsable Kayak paddles can be creatively used to give some rigidity to an otherwise frameless or over-soft rucksack.
- Shelter Structure. Collapsable paddles can be used under a tarp or plastic shelter as tent uprights and/or center-poles.
- Walking Stick. A rubble table leg pad over the end of your paddle shaft can turn it into a walking stick, but will wear out quickly and you'll end up damaging the shaft. A superior version can be made by whittling a wood plug and inserting it into the end of the shaft. Forked sticks work great. Beware of damaging the end of the shaft.
- Bug Snorkel. In Alaska, two Beyond Spec collaborators attempted to use hollow paddle shafts as bug snorkels, breathing out from underneath their sleeping bag. However, the rigidity and smooth ends of the shafts presented problems. Those wishing to use bug snorkels should consider a detachable length of flexible tubing on the end of the shaft, ending in some sort of mouthpiece that will stay in the mouth during sleep.
- Sand Spade. A durable paddle can move large amounts of sand or soft soil quickly. It is particularly helpful for flattening sleeing areas on sandbars and constructing elaborate, recreational systems of trenches, canals, and berms on the beach
- Quicksand Staff. Any good paddle can serve as a quicksand detector and escape item.
Looking Foolishly into the Future: the Aquabound Trekking Axe. While a paddleshaft ice axe would be highly inadvisable for real mountaineering, the simple additions of a socket-plug spike and lightweight ice-axe head could a paddleshaft segment into a serviceable trekking axe for use on steep ground, non-technical snow, river fording, and log crossings.
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Inner Tubes
We haven't experimented with inner tubes, mainly because we almost invariably run cold rivers in cold climates. We have, however, heard some pretty gnarly tales about inner tubing in warmer climates. By all means, let us know what's up.
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Water Travel and Hypothermia
Hypothermia compounds any water hazard. In northern climates, many rivers are snowmelt. Even in hot climates, rivers are often dammed. When dams draw water from deep in their lakes (as they usually do, to maximize pressure in the turbines), they act as giant water coolers: water sits deep, dissipates heat, and flushes through the dam, forming an icy new river.
White water is likely to swamp your packraft. Paddling will splash you. Windy open-water crossings will drench you in spray. This is par for the course: we expect to get drenched, and dress so we'll have fun anyway. Often, we get the most cold AFTER a long float, when we start walking again, as the cool blood sitting in our legs circulates into our core.
Being cold saps physical strength, handicaps co-ordination, and worsens judgement. At best, it's no fun. At worst, it's fatal. Insulate yourself well when running rivers! Watch out for your compatriots! If they look cold but don't want to admit it, you can always say that you're chilled, and call a warm-up break.